15.04.2014 12:01

Tongo – Talensi (in the village of animists)

If you are interested in the concept of animism and willing odwiedzilibyście one of these tribes, we recommend a relationship with a visit to a village in northern Ghana Tengzuk (March 2014).

I had to take off his shirt, shoes, socks, leave your camera. I was in the same underpants, I wonder now what? The worst, however, was not scorching sun and lack of shade, but need to come to the cave barefoot. Once walked the hot stones with sharp edges completely barefoot – feeling close stąpaniu on hot coals. I do not know how they do it, but it seems that the locals pay no attention to the temperature of the rocks, jumping from rock to rock climb up. Well, you have to grit your teeth and do not let each other know that uncomfortable, and feet mercilessly burns. So I’m going, carefully choosing another place to set foot, could do with a bit of shade, but it does not have the slightest chance, the sun shines exactly in advance, and in the sky there is not a single cloud.


Finally, we come to the cave, the holiest place of the people Thales (Tale), a place that until recently was open only in the costume Adami and Eve. Currently, enough already undress from the waist up (for all) and walking barefoot. Compared with the previous caverns this cave (basically wide crack granite rocks, extensive rock shelf – a pity that you can not take pictures) is much larger, and judging by the piles of feathers in the interior, also plays a major role in animistic rituals (sacrifice of animals, victims, guaranteeing prosperity and culture collections).

Inside sits besides some leaning local and celebrates some wizardry. One of the guides comes up to me:

– You know, now you should leave him a victim. (Of course, in terms of money)

OK. This is not discussed. I paid a total of (as the terms and conditions of northern Ghana) a lot of money for the opportunity to watch the village Tengzuk and then the Temple (Holy Cave), I arranged price, forced the son of the chief the opportunity to watch the caves (originally did not want to agree to this), that they want to another is not predicted (in total, after more than a week stay in Africa, in principle, should).

– Listen to (my guides is two, it seems to me that they are related with the head of the village), as already made an agreement with your brother (the first guide, yet at the bottom of the village, which, however, did not want to traipse through the mountains, and to care over me delegates his brothers), I pay for everything at the bottom and will bear no extra charge. No przebłagań spirits, ancestors fees on anything. Everything was paid considerable money at all, or is the agreement or not ….

Nodded their heads at each other and silently accepted. I do not think this is a popular response from the white. Later, it was as if nothing had happened. We sat a moment on the rock. The guys explained that the rites are celebrated in a cave (only blood sacrifice of animals (mostly chickens, hence the piles of feathers, but also goats and cows – the latter is interesting to come to the top, because it is quite steep in places). Place is quite well known ( described in guidebooks), tourists often appear (from a few to a dozen people a day. For larger ceremonies (animal sacrifice), tourists do not lead, but like today, then yes. indeed a moment at the bottom will be (around the smaller shrines) other celebration – dancing – as I wanted to, I could watch from afar. want, so go down. With great relief I assume shoes, wisely left in a trough (of course, a quick check of the interior if something crawled in the meantime) and go watch the dances.


Tongo – Tengzuk is located roughly 15 km from Bolgatanga (accessible by bus from the bus station in Bolga), you reach the village of Tongo and there is 5 km (paved road) to Tengzuk. Along the way, there is a chance to catch motorowerka, price negotiable. About 500 meters before the so-called. Palace boss in Tengzuk is the official box (if there is someone on the inside, it is worth to buy a ticket, because it is cheaper). Ticket price 15 Cedi (including the guide). There will no longer more expensive-I paid 20 Cedi, I think I just about ripped the 5 – but the package was and watching the palace and go to the village and watching the temples – or would be a cave and watching rites. Back to Bolga – you have to return to Tongo, busiki leave from the town center